By Mark Thorne, Moscow Food Co-op Board member
“Organic and Conventional: What Are They, and Why Should We Care?” was the title of a very informative and well-attended six-person forum that was held September 10 at the 1912 Center in Moscow. The panel members included Gwen Ayers, the Organic Program Manager for the Idaho State Department of Agriculture, which is a certifying agent with the USDA National Organic Program; Dr. Lynne Carpenter-Boggs, Professor of Soil Science and Sustainable Agriculture at Washington State University, and Director of the Graduate Certificate in Sustainable Agriculture; Allen Druffel, a fifth-generation local direct-seed farmer from Colton, WA who supplies grain to Shepherd’s Grain, and focuses on conservation practices, economic sustainability, and soil regeneration; Bill Newbry, who has earned undergraduate degrees in business and economics, and received an Honorary Doctorate from the University of Idaho, and is President and CEO of Pacific Northwest Farmer’s Cooperative (PNW), a 1400-member agricultural cooperative that facilitates grain movement in the Pacific Northwest and exports pulse crops to over 40 countries worldwide; Luke Tonnemaker, an organic farmer from Royal City, WA where he and his family produce over 200 varieties of organically produced fruits, including apples, pears, and paw paws, and 300 varieties of peppers, which are sold at the Moscow Farmer’s Market; and Eric Zakarison of the Zakarison Partnership, who together with his wife Sheryl Hagen-Zakarison, farm near Pullman where they raise wheat, barley, peas, and grass-fed sheep and goats with a commitment to increasing soil health and transitioning away from regular use of synthetic inputs. The forum was moderated by Dr. Kenton Bird, Journalism Professor and past Director of the School of Journalism and Mass Media at the University of Idaho, as well as life member of the Moscow Food Co-op.
Following introductions, the panelists were asked questions that ranged from the benefits of organic and conventional agriculture, what is involved in the organic certification process, how farm size affects production practices, and the challenges of transitioning to organic production. As each panelist addressed the questions, several nuggets of information, or perspective, came forth. First off, it became clear that the definitions for both “organic” and “conventional” agriculture have evolved significantly over the past several decades. Gwen stated that from its origins in the 1940s over concerns of post-WWII chemicals and for the environment, the organic food movement went from local farmers policing themselves to the current national and global standards codified in 2002 by the USDA so that “organic” means the same in Idaho as it does in Washington State or Mexico. Under these standards, every step of the production process is inspected annually. Furthermore, specific standards are in place for animal agriculture to ensure animals are raised in accordance with standards for organic inputs, and to meet standards for animal welfare. Lynne also pointed out that the USDA Organic standards represented “truth in labeling.” Both Lynne and Gwen stated that there are pesticides used in organic production, but the list of approved products is short and include non-synthetic compounds such as copper sulfate, boric acid, horticultural oils, and insect pheromones. Furthermore, it was noted that growers should apply a non-pesticide approach first as part of an overall integrated pest management (IPM) strategy. Examples of this would include crop rotation, companion planting, mulching, etc. Eric gave an example from their farm where they plant radishes and other non-crop plants along with their barley in an effort to “decide what weeds they want to grow,” and they look for ways to live with the perennial weeds, such as rush skeletonweed, that are difficult to control even with synthetic herbicides. Luke pointed out that perennial crops, such as fruit orchards, are in one place for a long period of time and “the pests will find you.” For Luke, the decision to go organic partially came out of the realization that pest populations sprayed with conventional pesticides would become resistant to those products within a very short time, maybe just weeks. For their trees, an organic approved kaolin clay application provides a barrier to mites causing so much damage.
With conventional production, both Allen, Bill, and Lynne agreed that conventional farming practices have changed dramatically over the past several decades and now have a greater focus on sustainability, soil conservation and regeneration, and precision farming technology. Allen brought up synthetic inputs saying that they are a big issue and glyphosate is the elephant in the room; however, he then said that given the Palouse topography, synthetic inputs have resulted in less soil going down the river. Both went on to say that modern equipment minimizes overlap and can apply materials more precisely. “We don’t drive a tractor that doesn’t drive itself,” Allen stated, referring to GPS precision systems that are now available for most farm equipment. Allen also said that he has reduced the amount of pesticides applied by using additives that help the pesticide work better at lower use rates. Bill noted that the PNW Cooperative does residue testing for six chemicals and four metals on the products it markets, including chickpeas for hummus, across the nation and into other countries.
Scale was discussed in relation to how farm size affects organic and conventional agriculture. All agreed that farm size is a big factor in how food is produced. Allen felt that farms that get too big sacrifice stewardship for efficiency; however, Lynne pointed out that larger organic farms have greater energy efficiency than smaller organic farms. Luke stated that on organic farms, growing a high diversity of crops is difficult at a large scale, and that product quality may be better from smaller organic farm size. Eric pointed out he could not do what he is doing, transitioning toward organic on the Palouse, if he were farming a large acreage. Large scale farming with modern equipment is expensive and, as Bill stated, combines can cost as much as $800,000. However, both Gwen and Lynne pointed out that the majority of organic production in Idaho and Washington is in the irrigated regions of southern Idaho and in central Washington. Gwen also stated that Idaho has the sixth largest number of acres in organic production of any state in the nation, with much of the land producing alfalfa for organically certified dairies.
In the end, the question of which is better, organic or conventional, resulted in “it depends.” As Lynne put it, “a sweeping statement is hazardous” and that here on the Palouse “we don’t yet know how to do organic well.” All agreed that location plays a big role and Allen went on to state that given the Palouse landscape, we don’t yet have enough knowledge to be organic, but we want to leave the soil in better condition for the next generation. Allen also encouraged people to “know their farmers” and to ask questions. In the fruit-producing areas of Washington, Luke noted that the industry is headed toward organic, and economic sustainability is a big a factor. Eric felt that focusing on “nutrient density” may favor organic production. All agreed that more education and knowledge is needed to improve production practices and sustainability. Gwen summed up the “which is better” question by stating that if a person is interested in limiting GMO crops and synthetic inputs, then organic is the best choice; and, if a person is primarily interested in increasing production to feed the world or to manage invasive species, then conventional may be the best choice; and, if a person is interested in buying primarily local products, then it may be both.
Overall, the panelists brought thoughtful and insightful comments and perspectives. The forum was sponsored by the Moscow Food Co-op and organized and presented by the Co-op’s Owner Engagement Committee. We want to thank all the panelists, as well as Kenton Bird for doing an excellent job of moderating the forum. The Owner Engagement Committee and the Moscow Food Co-op Board welcomes feedback from the Co-op owners!